That question, again! (Part II)

The old fashioned way – almost abandoned, today – to rebuff scratched up cases or remove dents or nicks from beat up watches was an invasive procedure that could literally deform the original shape of a watch case, or at best remove forever that particular finish – whether sanded or lapped – that was unique to the factory’s specifications.

A gold Vacheron & Constantin ref. 4178 chronograph badly polished the old school way and after proper, sensitive case restoration.

To a true lover of watch design like myself this practice was nothing short of sacrilegious, and since the very early days of my career I started growing a particular passion for untouched – or barely touched – vintage watches. Only that condition would preserve the purity of the original design that determined the uniqueness of every model. Just like today, however, the buyer’s preference was determined by what the market privileged: back then, it was the shiny, freshly re-polished watch. Trust me, refusing to re-polish an untouched watch – which I did several times – simply meant losing the sale and having to wait for another buyer. And these clients were experienced, veteran collectors too! Only the least expert would let me decide for them and accepted to maintain their watch’s original condition even if that involved living with a scratch or a small dent on its case. I will keep blood chilling stories of beautiful, original dials refinished because of collectors’ intolerance to a small halo or patina for next time…

Some of my hometown’s biggest names in watchmaking would proudly include in the service a heavy re-polishing job that would often permanently remove all outer engravings, including case serial numbers and brand logos, like the Rolex coronet. Sadly, even major manufacturers like Rolex and Patek Philippe would return watches with cases that were literally violated as part of the “official” service process, along with replacing original hands, dials and bezels with later replacement parts that would eventually devastate the integrity of the vintage piece. But all this for a reason: it was exactly what clients wanted. Slowly, however, things started to change in favor of preservation, and people – gradually absorbing the education offered from a handful of dealers – started appreciating the occasionally rough beauty of an unmolested watch over the glittering allure of the over-polished case. The request to service centers – factory authorized or not – to overhaul the movement without replacing any original visible part and leaving the case be started becoming so frequent, that even service center had to start considering to change their views on what was right or wrong regarding maintenance.

Unpolished Rolex GMT-Master ref 1675

So we arrive to our days, when people on one end ask: “has the case been polished?”, obviously unable to tell themselves thus not having a real personal opinion or preference, and watch repairmen or service centers daring not touch a case any longer, if they have the slightest hunch they’re looking at an untouched one. Unfortunately there are still a few out there that haven’t got it yet and never will, but they represent a truly sparse minority. In the meantime, however, re-polishing cases has not disappeared as a practice, but has evolved into a new concept that I like to think of as “sensitive” watch case restoration, something that a few extraordinary artisans have brought to a level of a real art. In fact, not only some incredibly talented hands today are capable to re-polish a case in a way you could never tell it was done – I offer this service myself – but can actually work on a previously devastated one and make it look like it was never touched in the first place. As a matter of fact, as far as I am concerned the latter is the only case in which this kind of intervention is justified. Or Different hands and different styles  offer different kinds of results, with a general tendency of the individual artisans to strive for a like-new effect as testimony of their professional virtues: I see it a little differently, but that’s something I can share with my clients only. In the meantime, collectors keep slowing downtown worry about an issue that hardly exists anymore, just like traffic occasionally thickens for hours on a same spot where there seems to be absolutely no cause for this to happen, other than an accident happened hours earlier and yet not a single trace of it is still visible. let me remark this: re-polishing the case of a vintage watch that has never been touched before is a very, very bad idea; likewise, leaving an already badly re-polished…badly re-polished, is just a stupid if you have a good opportunity to have it done right.

For Part III, click here.

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